Garden hint

Gardenhint: the roses

2011-04-12T23:36:00.000-07:00

It's between September and November that will decide the future of roses, how and when will those new plants, pruning. From the operations of that depends on health and beauty of these romantic plants. The most popular decorative and ornamental flower. Planting. The deadline for the planting of rose bushes coincides with that of leaves of absence, unless using plants grown in pots. Obviously, the climate of each area will allow a better determination of the date of such initial and final periodo.E 'harmful plant prior to full leaf fall because the leaves are responsible for what is to transpire in the aqueous solution absorbed by the roots. When the roots are removed from the soil and can no longer perform their work while the green leaves and other tissues continue to breathe, there is a dangerous imbalance. The installation must be done in late winter, when the temperature rising, encouraging the development of leaves and roots, in part because of the recent trauma of transplantation, are not yet in operation.

Do not do any of defloration book in advance as the top of the new branches, more herbaceous, could not cope with the winter weather.
In temperate climates-hot, the system must be made before the end of January. In regions with colder winters (ex: weather in Rome), the period in favor of the plant ends in mid-February. Finally, in locations characterized by sub-continental climate (ex: weather in Milan) is a plant should be delayed, by March. This operation should be avoided when the ground is frozen or has puddles of rain. The roses have special needs: land tend to prefer clay, they thrive in soil with chemical reaction by sub-sub-alkaline to acidic. The rules to remember. It is appropriate that the beds to house the new plant other roses have been cultivated in the immediately preceding years.

    For the planting of rose bushes in the hoeing of the land must reach 35 cm in depth. Scrambling for rose bushes shall be provided by holes 60 x 60 cm.

    Who has the availability of mature manure can count on two good supply of fertilizer and excellent humus. The manure must be incorporated with abundant and evenly during tillage. The lack of manure waste paper can be surrogate with a similar procedure, the organic material from other material (dried leaves, scraps of turf, wet peat) with the addition of fertilizer with a slow effect.

Although the nursery has already taken steps to standardize the length of the branches, you should not shorten those shoots up to the wooden part and eliminate those thin or malformed.

    Pending the plant, the roots should not be exposed to air, will benefit, however, their immersion in a bucket containing a slurry of clay and water. Discard broken or damaged roots.
    At the time the plant will open a hole to accommodate the root system well enough to be retracted to surface, a plant is completed, the coupling point.
    The land filling is then pressed. Repeated watering will eliminate the harmful air pockets that could cause the next lower whole plant.
    If at the time the plant is still expected hard frost, the branches close to the ground must be protected with a coating of earth. In such weather conditions will be necessary to postpone the next pruning.

Gardenhint: the Wisteria

2011-04-12T08:07:00.000-07:00

Wisteria is an undemanding plant that also bears the polluted atmosphere of cities. We plant between October and March in any medium, provided not too much lime, preferably fertile and well drained. However, he needs a lot of exposure to the sun for best flowering. Although it may sometimes have difficulty nell'attecchimento (so it is best to plant specimens grown in pots), grows vigorously after the first year, requires no special care and unaffected by frost. All wisteria plants are vigorous and very significant development: it is better to take this into account and allow them ample room to work. The roots expand greatly, and if too close to floors or walls, can cause damage. The stems, branches and twining, need support in the early stages of development to start them on surfaces without handles.

Following woody trunks and become real, even of large diameter at the base. By the way, a curiosity: in the present Japanese drums are wrapped around the support in a clockwise direction, and wrap themselves in the opposite direction than the Japanese species! Given the vigor of the plants, it should provide support for avoiding branches that can be wound through the bars of the cancellation or intertwining networks: over time would eventually encompass and damaging them.

After several years of cultivation in a vase, wisteria, kept under the natural harbor should be transplanted in the ground, because the roots need to grow large quantities of land. Or, provide a drastic reduction of the ground and root and start growing from a single stem, like a tree, shortening the regular classes.

Pick the leaves of the wisteria and then dried concimatelo with mineral fertilizers low in nitrogen, otherwise it will come back again aphids and red spider mites that have infestalo during the summer.
A beautiful shape that you can give your balcony wisteria (grown in pots), because we always give you a nice effect, is an umbrella. Educate to the wisteria tree, leaving only a fuslo. Clip it to a lutare and remove the side shoots. The third beat year will expand branches in a prescribed form, stopping at a small frame.

Gardenhint: The Bougainville

2011-04-12T01:17:00.000-07:00

General: The Bougainville belongs to the family of Nyctaginaceae and is native to tropical and subtropical areas of South America. Its name is traced back to that of the French navigator Louis Antoine de Bougainville, who during his travels he discovered this beautiful plant and became a great lover. It is a kind of 18 species of shrubs and creepers.
Exhibition: In the warm temperate zones bougainvillea can be grown outdoors in the garden, while in those where the temperature, especially during the winter season, it is necessary to repair them are more rigid and, depending on the situation, retreated into . They can be grown in pots and tubs emissions. The growth and development of climbing species must be supported by the climbing plants on trellises, wires and special supports. The ideal location is full sun, watering should be more frequent during the flowering period and decrease gradually to the end of it. In summer it should be administered once a week, a liquid fertilizer. For potted plants you should proceed to repot every year in February and March.
Flowers: The bougainvillea is distinguished by the peculiarity of its inflorescence, the latter are made up of bracts (leaves changing), of various colors and shades that surround the true flower of yellow-white. The flowering period is from June to late autumn.

Multiplication is by cuttings in summer hardwood cuttings are taken approximately 7 cm in length, to be planted in a sandy composed, in pots of about 6 cm in diameter. For a period of three weeks, the period of rooting, it is good to place them in special boxes to ensure planting a temperature of 20-25 ° C. Alternatively, cuttings of 15 cm can be harvested from mature branches in January. The procedure to obtain the roots is the same as seen above, the temperature should be maintained is about 18 ° C.
In February, it is good to perform the pruning action, be shortened by about one third, on the main branches and prune the plant by eliminating the weaker branches.

Bougainvillea spectabilis This is a species native to Brazil that can reach a height of 7-8 meters and more, if planted in the ground full of 1.5 to 3 meters when planted in pots. The stem is thorny, oval and elliptical leaves are dark green. The inflorescences are characterized by long bracts up to 4 cm, with colors ranging from red to purple and appear in summer. Among the most popular varieties include the Bougainvillea Bougainvillea Spectabilis Spectabilis lateritic and Thomas.

Bougainvillea glabra A native of Brazil, the Bougainvillea glabra is suitable to be grown in pots, as it flourishes even when very young. In this case the maximum height reached by the plant is about 1.5-2.5 meters. The leaves are oval, the inflorescence bracts from the typical corn and composed of various shades, from red to purple, occurring from September through the fall. The variety is the most widespread sanderiana.